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There is a lot to think about when picking the perfect kayak.

There is a lot to think about when picking the perfect kayak. But there is an equal amount when it comes to roof racks. If you plan on using a non-truck to transport your kayak you are going to need some straps and something to mount it to your vehicle. Depending on you kayak you make be limited on your roof rack choices and those limitations can be expensive and if you try to take a short cut or rig something up that is “good enough” you maybe jeopardizing your safety. Please do not take this lightly as a flying kayak can be a killer.

What is the best way to transport a kayak?

A good roof rack for your kayak can be the perfect way to transport your kayak. They all come with different ways to mount and tie down your kayak and I have tried them all. At the end of the day they all work. But some work better than others depending on your vehicle, personality and physicality.
The three main ways to carry your kayak on the roof of your vehicle. There are foam pads and straps, factory roof rack that comes with your vehicle and the aftermarket roof rack system. Picking the type of system might seem like a personal choice but it really comes down to the shape and weight of your kayak and how you might use it. and what type of vehicle its going on. So here is my break down on how I feel about each one so you can use it to help form your own decision.

Kayak Weight is a Big Deal

The thing I want you to walk away with about roof racks is kayak weight is a BIG DEAL. Even bigger deal if you drive a full size SUV like I do. Not just from a safety aspect but trying to roof your kayak after a long day of paddling can be a buzz kill! Twenty-five years ago kayaks that were over 50 lbs where considered heavy. Back then kayak launches didn’t really exist so portage was a big deal. My favorite put-in was 100 yards from the road so kayak in one hand and fishing gear in the other was a time saver. Now a sturdy fishing kayak’s often see 60-70 lbs and if you start getting into pedal or motor dives 125 lbs takes it from a kayak to a small boat.

What you drive makes a difference

Picking up a kayak and getting on top of your SUV while it sits in the driveway is much easier than at the kayak launch in the driving rain after an 8 hr paddle into the wind and against the tide. I used to have rollers on the back of my roof rack and loaded my kayak from the rear. I thought it would be easier because I only had to lift one end. However it was a rare occasion where the sand covered bottom of the kayak didn’t get rested on the roof while I wiggle and jiggle it to get into the rollers. I would then lift the other end up and roll the kayak onto the roof. I would love to tell you that it worked great but on those days where the arms and legs are jelly I would always seem to add a scratch or two to the top of the bronco. Today they sell rubber mats that hang of the back of your SUV but for me that is just more stuff I have to pack, clean and put away. Keep it simple.

These photos from the manufacture crack me up. They only show the easy part. How do she get the other end on top of the roof?

When I went from an old school full size bronco to the more modern explorer I got rid off the rollers and figured the mid size SUV was low enough to just pick up the entire kayak and load from the side. This worked most of the time, but again on those jelly arm days I came up short more than once and even broke a side mirror when the rivet to the rubber handle gave way. I am probably making it sound worse than it was but at some point I gave up on the roof rack and switched over to a pick-up where I could just throw it in the back.

Not all Kayaks fit all roof racks.

But a lot of us don’t have trucks (I have switched back to an SUV) so if they seem like they will work for you understand not all kayaks will fit the same. So you want to match your roof rack with your kayak.

Foam Blocks

Note the swimming pool noodles. This was right after returning from WINNING a Kayak Tournament in Tampa, FL which was about 50 minutes from the house. Because of my keel that ran down 60% of my kayak I had to flip the kayaks over which sucked. They slid all over the place and the round noodles never stayed put. It took me forever to get these things secured. I used to get so worried they would fly off and kill someone. Right after this trip I upgraded to a thule roof rack.

The most simple way to carry your kayak on your roof is to use foam blocks. Personally I think this are better suited for surf and paddle boards as their is no way to get a snug fit without carving up the blocks if your kayak has any kind of shape to it. If this is how you plan on traveling with your kayak having a flat or round kayak bottom will work best, but these boats don’t track well and get blown around in the wind a lot more but if you are going total economy package most big box store kayaks are basic round bottoms and are perfect for traveling on foam blocks. These kayaks are for fun little paddles on those nice calm days. If you are thinking of going a little more extreme you want something that tracks well in the surf and wind. With that comes a keel so foam blocks might be an issue.

However if you still need to go the economic way I would make sure you get closed cell foam. It is very dense and durable and also found they grip better than swim noodle or other foam you might give a try. There are all kinds of DIY Noodle Kayak ideas out there and I have used them but they don’t last and you end up buying more and more noodles which ends up costing more than the closed cell foam blocks.

Your Kayak’s Keel makes all the difference

If you do go this route you need to figure out how to accommodate the keel of your kayak if it has one. There are single block solutions that have a v or u-shape but the keel will still impede a good fit so you will have to get creative which might lead to having to buy more blocks. The best solution is to find blocks that can cradle the hull and leave the keel free and clear. The SportRack SR5527 is a perfect example.

If you do go with the foam block check on the strapping recommendations. Some require you strap the block down AND then strap your Kayak down. So you may also have to get two more straps. Also, I never could get things tight enough so the kayak always twisted on the roof if I just strapped around the roof so I started using straps on the bow and aft to keep things snug in all four directions. Amazon sells these cool tie downs that fit under your hood and tailgate. I also recommend using these ratchet rope tie downs. They have a quick release and you can get them tight (but be careful you can also get them too tight)

After Market Roof Racks

Most of them are high priced but well worth it. I have owned both Thule and Yakima and they are both solid options and if you are the type of person that will spend the extra money to know you have a proven solution that you will never need to worry about high highly recommend either brand. However, you need to keep reading because there are other things that you need to consider.

Hauling several flat bottom kayaks with J-Bar type mounts

First are the j-Bar type of kayak roof racks. They get their name because they are shaped like a “J”. If your vehicle has a factory rack you can get universal J-Bars that will mount directly to your stock rack. If not you will probably want to get a rack system which can be expensive, but it is money well spent as they are all well built and will last a lifetime. As a matter of fact the real good ones offer a lifetime warranty so spend the extra money.

J-Bars are most useful if you are mounting more than one kayak on your roof rack, but if you keep your vehicle in a garage it will most likely be an issue unless you spring for the folding j-bar. I have used j-bar racks before and ended up ripping them off at the Tampa Airport Parking garage when I drove into the low ceiling. I still made my flight but not before many f-bombs as I pounded free what was left of my j-bars with a tire iron. It was one of my better moments… thank god it was before cell phone s had video cameras! The one thing I did like about the j-bars was strapping the kayaks in. It was easier than the saddle mount or foam block. I didn’t have to throw the straps over the truck because they were easily attached to the top of the “J” so all I had to do was reach up and grab them. They were also a bit easier to load from the side. I could almost just throw the whole kayak into them and they kind of just caught them. If I didn’t crush them at that airport I probably would have used them more.on you rroof rack


Second are saddle mounts that allow your kayak to ride in its natural position. Your kayak’s hull sits in “saddles” and then gets strapped to the roof rack. To me these are the best solution when transporting your kayak on the your vehicle. They also can be mounted on factory racks or purchased as part of a high-end rack system. Not only does your kayak sit the way it should, but they can handle much more weight and the have an actual chance of fitting in the garage.

You can adjust the width and most of them lift the kayak’s keel out of the way so they become extremely versatile giving you the best chance for working on any boat you my buy in the future. So if you are going for a big heavy fishing kayak this is the way you go.

I also felt the kayaks were more secure. For long trips this is a must and if that isn’t enough your kayak at 75 mph is far more quite with a saddle mount because catch less air and put less torque on the kayak and rack. When everything is strapped down in parallel you will cut down on the humming and whistling.

If you are thinking about transporting your kayak on the roof of your vehicle I highly recommend these type of mounts. Just make sure your kayak will clear the roof or crossbar to your rack. Also, I have done the wheels on the back for rear loading and didn’t find it to work well for me. I am sure they have gotten better but still can not justify the extra money. Plus when I get the choice I always go with less moving parts so I don;t have to deal with them wearing out and breaking.

A good roof rack will only require strapping to the rack (black). However cheaper racks or foam blocks may require additional straps in the front and back (green)

Lift Assist and Trailer Hitch Kayak Loading Systems

In closing I wanted to mention Loading systems. Since the explosion of kayaking every manufacture has been trying to build more and more things to sell. With that I have seen many innovative ways to load your kayak but most of them are extremely expensive like the Thule Hullavator Pro which starts at $700 and has a weight limit of 40 lbs!! Because of this I have never owned one so I don’t have an opinion on how they work but I will say most of them require more stuff and have moving parts which break two of my fundamental rules. However, if you are small in stature and 40 lbs might be 40% of your own weight I can see how this devices are the only way you can top your kayak so for those folks it may be money well spent.

I never like to block my tailgate. You never know when its the only way out!

Lastly, when it comes to those T-Loader devices like the one Rhino sells for $470 they do seem like they would work well and should get rid of the headache of trying to get your kayak topped without hitting your vehicle with a dirty kayak bottom. However it prevents access to your tailgate which is a pain in the ass if you forget to pack something or even worse if you are in an accident and the only exit is your tailgate. As you can tell I am not a big fan of extra gizmos mostly because I have spend hundreds if not thousands on all these “good ideas” only to revert back to the most basic solutions.

Finally, if you have not made your purchase you really need to think about how you are going to transport your kayak. The last thing you want to do is spend your entire budget on a killer kayak only to find out to transport it correctly will require almost the same amount of money you just spend on your yak.

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Twenty years of rigging kayaks – Go slow and Keep it simple.

What is the best way to rig a kayak?

For years many people have asked “what is the best way to rig your kayak”. My best answer to rigging kayaks always starts with “it depends” and ends with “whatever you do keep it simple and don’t do it all at once”.

I have been fishing out of a kayak for so long people used to laugh at the boat ramp and say “you actually fish out of that thing?” and I went years before I saw another kayak fishing on the water. Now kayak fishing is a 9 to 10 figure business and you can’t skip a stone without first looking for a kayak or paddle board so you don’t hurt anyone.

My first kayak was a Heritage Osprey. It was their latest boat at the time and well before their first set of fishing kayaks. It was bright yellow and weighed about 40 pounds, a sit on top with two hatches one on the bow and one on the aft. This was a far cry (err… scream) from the Hobie Mirage or Native Watercraft Titans.

My first few trips I had my tackle between my legs and my rod laid out on the sit-on-top deck just like I did as a kid when paddling a canoe for trout along the Winnacunnet River in New Hampshire.

The ride was wet and I am a big man so the scuppers let water in every wake and it took very little wind to turn boat slap into a soaking mist. The floor of the kayak was always wet, and my fishing reel was always sitting in the salt water. Something had to be done.

Kayak Accessories are limitless. But it doesn’t mean you have to rig everything

I went down to my local marine supply and started looking at rod holders. Most of them where big heavy and stainless steel which only meant one thing… expensive. But there was a few flush mount holders made for small vessels and were made out of plastic. I bought two and couldn’t wait to get them installed.

What is the best place to install rod holders on a kayak?

I spent a longtime sitting in my kayak trying to figure out the best place. They had to be easy to grab but out of the way when I paddled and with any luck the could also be situated to troll on days that I wanted to find new holes.
Today it’s pretty much a no brainer on where to put your rod holders and what kind of holder to use in the different areas of the boat. There were not pictures online and no one in my area was really doing it. I didn’t realize it but I was on the cutting edge of a sport that was about to explode.

I finally decided to put both holders behind me on each side. The holder’s flange was at an angle so I decided to have the angle pointing at 45 degrees off the aft of the kayak. This would allow two 7ft rods to span wide enough to put two lines out and they were also out of the way of my paddle. More importantly I could see the tips just by turning my head without shifting my weight. This was huge back in the day when the kayaks were not as stable as the boats today and came in handy trolling for Spanish mackerel 100 yds offshore in the gulf fighting small whitecaps.

I used a hole saw and made quick work installing the holders but I had one problem. The holders didn’t have a bottom. They were just a tube with a collar. They where designed to go in the gunnel or bench of a boat and let the rod butts pass through to the open space below. But in a kayak this would end up being a water entry point to the sealed hull and seeing the kayak’s “unsinkable” feature was designed with the sealed air space I had to plug up the ends to protect the integrity of the boat and more importantly me!!

Don’t do this when installing rod holders on your kayak

Two PVC caps and marine silicone and the job was pretty much done. Well at least I thought it was. The rod holders were just “hanging” below the deck and the two holes I just cut weakened the rear deck enough that on the hot Florida summer it began to drupe from the weight of my gear distorting the deck to a point that it became an real concern.
I need to brace the deck and support the rod holders somehow. I ended up going back to PVC, removing the original caps and plumbed extensions to the rod holders that brought them to the bottom deck making them not just the rod holders but the braces to support the top deck. This ended up being the final solution for flush mount rod holders and to this day it is how I install them.

So now the kayak with two rod holders cleared the cockpit so I could make my way easily which was the primary goal. However, a secondary outcome was unplanned but just seemed to happened. With my rods stowed I had more room for more stuff so I would load my boat with more and more stuff (bad idea).

I would have two poles in the rod holders and still have one with me laid down in the cockpit like before. So adding two rod holders didn’t get my rod out of the cockpit like I hoped. In addition, I was also laying my landing net at my feet so the handle went down between my legs for easy access when landing a fish. This worked for a while only if my cockpit rod didn’t slide around while I was paddled rough water. When it did, I always seemed to hook my net which always made a mess of things.

As I expanded my fishing knowledge and started to shift from whatever is biting to chasing red fish and snook hard baits with trouble hooks became my go-to baits for long casts and big fish. However, it was a 30 minute delay every time I buried the troubles in my net and it always happened when I could see tails of busy drums or linesiders crashing bait. It got so bad one day I ended up cutting three large holes in my $100 net just so I could get back to fishing.
I needed to be able to carry all my rods, nets and gear out of the way while I was on the move. So, I thought about mounting a rod holder between my legs but it looked like a ball crusher if I every had to get back in the boat while in deep water. I was convinced I needed to keep everything behind me, so I ended up taking a milk crate and zip tying pvc posts into two of the corners. Then I fastened the crate to the lid of the rear hatch with a couple of wingnuts which I could easily remove. I didn’t know if this would work and didn’t want to drill more holes in the boat. Drilling the lid seemed like a better idea and to this day I try to always do this. Buying a new lid is simple if you need a redo.
The biggest mistake I made rigging kayaks.

Now my boat had two rods in the original holders that set out to the sides and two rods in the milk crate that stuck straight up making my kayak look like a mini trawler. But my net was still in between my legs and with a bad habit of laying my rod down on the deck I cut a few more holes in my net until I added pvc to all four corners of the milk crate so I could use one for the net. Now I was ready for anything! Or was I?

It was in the middle of winter at this point and everything has moved deep into the back country up in the canals and mangroves. I loaded up the truck and headed to the put-in. Two rods in the holders, two in the milk crate holders and one crate holder for the net!

The wind was up so I decided to paddle deep into the mangroves, and it wasn’t long I was hooked onto a monster snook. Its tail danced across the water with massive head shakes hoping to throw my DOA jig head free but then quickly plunged back into the water and began screaming line off my reel. The area was very tight and I didn’t want too much line to get out because she could burry herself in the mangroves before I figured out where she even went. I decided to tighten up the drag and go on a little ride. My kayak quickly shifted in the direction of the fish has she began to pull me down the canal and that is where I heard branches breaking behind me and stuff falling into the water.
Don’t lose your gear because of bad rigging.

In the excitement of the snook doing what snook do I didn’t realize I backed right into the mangroves entangling my net into the branches. Mangroves are knarly and love to get a hold of things so as the snook began to pull me away my net, still in the holder, was lodged into the mangroves and as the snook pulled my kayak it ripped the milk crate from the deck by popping the storage hatch from the boat only to have the entire thing slide off the net handle and into the water. There I was, a monster snook on and about $300 of gear sinking to the bottom of a mangrove canal.

I figured I lost all my gear, so I wasn’t about to loose my snook. The fight lasted less then five minutes seeing pulling around a 250 pound human is exhausting and I had the leader showing in no time.

To this day it is still one of my better fish but the best memory was when I went back to see the net hanging like a Christmas ordainment from the mangroves with the handle pointing to where all my other gear was submerged. The water was only about 3ft deep and once I got my net out of the branches I quickly retrieved my gear and called it a day.

I tried to use this set up more than once but it never seemed to be right. I hated the net behind me in one of the milk crate holders. It was hard to grab under normal circumstances never mind when you are fighting a net worthy catch with your paddle in your lap. I pretty much ended up putting the net in the holder while underway but if the fish started getting big it always ended up between my legs.

What is the best thing to have on a fishing kayak?

I then met a guide in Boca Grand, Fast Freddie. He was a back county and tarpon captain and used to ask me along during his scouting trips on days he didn’t have a client. Fred was the salt of the earth and being on the water with him was always awesome. His knowledge of the inshore slam was second to none and spending a day with him was like going to fishing college. In just a few seasons I had my bachelors in finding fish.

Fred was a conservationist and made a big deal about keeping fish alive to fight another day. The only thing that pissed him off more than jet ski’s was seeing someone miss handling a fish. Fred was the one who taught me to keep my hands wet, use a rubber net and only take the fish out of the water if you are going to keep it or if it is a personal best and you want a photo.

However, a photo came with another set of rules. First the fish gets a rest. After a long fight fish are exhausted and the last thing you want to do is pull them out of the water while they are trying to catch their breath. Second, if you could get a good picture over the side that’s where it happened, if it was a once in a life time catch and you just had to take it out of the water you had to hold your breath while the fish was out of the water.

My favorite next is a modified boat net that I cut the handle down so I can manage it one handed like I am on a trout stream. The only issue is that its metal and sinks. I have wrapped the rim with foam so it floats but its a bit bulky. So be on the lookout for my custom kayak wood landing nexts. These are going to be the next best thing in kayak fishing. I am not cutting any corners and not only will they be the best made nets on the market but they will be heirloom works of art that you will want to pass down to your children. Keep an eye on my Shop to see if they are Available.

Rigging Kayak number 2.

My next kayak was Heritage Redfish. It was bigger, stronger and faster than the Osprey and also came with ROD HOLDERS and the rear deck was molded so it could accommodate a milk crate perfectly. The Redfish also came from the manufacture with tie down, cleats, and bungees to hold down gear. It was ready to fish the day I got it.
But as a kayak fisherman I had to tinker and try to make things better. I took a bunch of pvc and plumbed a framework of rod holders that wrapped around the crate holding six rods. Four up straight and two angled out to the side so I could set up for trolling like my first boat.

I also wanted to improve my anchor and add a fish finder. The anchor was simple I got two plastic pulleys from the hardware store and a few d-ring. Anchor trollies don’t have to be complicated. You just want to get the mounting point for the anchor to the aft tip of they kayak. I attached the pullies to d-rings and the d-rings to the side and end handles. I then took some paracord and the last d-ring looping through the pullies and back to the d-ring.

When on the water I drop anchor, get it set then tie a loop about a foot above the surface and hook it to the trollies clip and at the kayak drifts it will naturally pull the d-ring to the back of the kayak. To retrieve it I would just pull on the trolley returning the d-ring so I could easily grab the anchor line. If for some reason it got hung up I would just back over the anchor line and grab it with my paddle. So make sure you put out enough line so if you paddle directly over the anchor there is plenty of slack to grab the line with your paddle.

You can Easily Over Rig Your Fishing Kayak

This led to my next rule and probably the most important rule on any vessel. Do EVERYTHING you can to make sure everything had more than ONE function. If I put something on my kayak it HAS to do more than one thing, or I would seriously consider going without.

I upgraded my anchor trolley to 500 lb para-cord that could be used as a grab hold if I capsized. Then switched my mushroom anchor to a grapnel so it could be used as a survival tool if I ever found myself spending an unplanned night somewhere. I rigged my portable running lights to be mounted in my scotty deck mounts or my flush mount holders. Lights are pretty much single use but making them able to be put anywhere makes them multifaceted, so the function of the craft becomes higher.

Make sure everything can do more than one thing or can be combined with other items to serve other purposes.
I also combine items so together they serve other purposes. I keep a USGA throw cushion with 30ft of paracord wrapped stuffed under the bungie netting for all the what-ifs. If I ever find myself outside the boat and unable to get in I can pull the cushion out and have plenty of line to keep me attached to my kayak. However, I have never used this cushion except for seating by putting it on top of my upside down milk crate while I make a small campfire on shore to cook lunch. This I have used many times.

I have also used or made live wells, Kites, Sails, Drift Socks, Anchor Poles, Push Poles and drag anchors. Each have been abandoned (minus the anchor pole) and put on the pain in the ass listt. All of which I will share at some point.

Have an epic day fishing from a Kayak

With that an epic day is very rewarding. When you plan the perfect day and it does become perfect there is nothing more satisfying. I have had many 50+ fish on my bay boat, burning gas up and down the miles and miles of grass flats, mangroves and oyster bars of my local waters. But once you know all the spots its not hard racing from one to the other until you find the bite. But on a kayak you have to figure out where to put in, where to paddle and where to fish in a very small range. If you do it wrong you day is done before you even park your truck. So, having an epic day in a territory 10% of what I would cover with a 225hp Yamaha is something every kayak fisherman can take pride in doing.